Here is Hawa Mahal; probably the most iconic structure in Jaipur with it’s intricate facade in terracotta pink. In order to maintain the color scheme across the city, there is an enforced law on it.

The city is truly pretty in pink.

What is Holi Festival?  It is a Hindu festival that has become global where other countries have followed the tradition of throwing colored powder to one another and celebrate the day filled with festivities, water guns and colors!

I was warned at least a dozen times to not celebrate Holi in the streets alone. Heck, since when do I listen to warnings without experiencing myself?! So I did anyway and it was a hell lot of fun!

Here are a few things you should know as a solo female when celebrating Holi.

1. Apply a generous amount of lotion or other types of moisturizer to your skin and hair unless you want to stay with a different patch of colors for a few days 😛

2. Go on the streets and celebrate with the locals! I did not feel in danger or harassed at any point of time. In fact, they were very polite by asking if they could put some color on my cheeks and forehead.

3. Tourist police will be surrounding the city so you don’t have to worry about safety.

4. You might want to skip having Lassi from the streets on Holi because it will probably be infused with bhaang or take it anyway? 😛

5. Hostels/Hotels usually arrange a private celebration for their guests for a small cost, so this is always fun to go to but don’t forget to experience the streets!

6. You will notice that there is barely any local female on the streets, I was told that this is because during Holi, men are allowed to throw colored powder at any body parts which they might take advantage and cross boundaries however, I did not encounter such behavior.

The next time you visit India during Holi, don’t be afraid to celebrate on the streets with the locals like a local 😀

Happy Holi!

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Here are a few things you should know before visiting Ladakh:

1. Phone & Internet Coverage – There isn’t any internet or phone coverage from the Indian telecom provider. If you need to make any calls, you’ll have to borrow a local’s phone.

2. Highest Plateau in Jammu & Kashmir – It is located 11,500 feet above sea level hence it is highly advised to take 1-day rest prior to exploring the city. You will find this sign as soon as you walk in the airport and automated audio will be played on the safety precautions.

3. Inner Line Permit – Ladakh shares borders with  Tibet and China, hence many of the locations are restricted and requires a permit. Some locations requires at least 2 tourists and certain nationalities such as Chinese, Pakistani and Bangladeshi are strictly not allowed and is not likely to get a permit. It’s always best to check in advance.

4. Accommodation – Ladakh has many family guest houses and it is the best type of accommodation.

5. Report to the Police – As soon as you walk in the airport, there is a police who will hand out a form for foreigners to fill in and report to the police of your visit and duration. I walked right past him and out of the airport but no one noticed me as a foreigner as I look Ladakhi to them. So make sure to go to the police stand in case they miss you.

6. Transportation – Because it is a mountainous area, there isn’t any public transportation system. It is best to hire a driver for an entire day and they have a set price at a counter by the airport. You can still bargain for less if you will hire him for an entire day.

Personal Experience: I had not known on any of the above, I learned them as I went along. I had only 2 days in Ladakh hence I did not have time to rest. Instead of resting, I went to an even higher altitude which was Khardung La 😀

Not having researched on the permits, I had to miss on going to Pangong Lake because I was not able to acquire the permit in such a short time. I was lucky that the driver pulled out some strings to get the permit for Khardung La and for a single person. The agency who issued the permit faked another person’s details 😛

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Srinagar is a city that will leave you mesmerized. It is surrounded by the Himalayan range and blessed with many lakes, swamps, the different type of trees, and flowers.

Here are some of the things you could do when visiting  Srinagar in winter.

1. Stay on a houseboat – Dal Lake has an array of colorful houseboats in various sizes, intricate designs, and selections of luxury. I stayed in the Yellow Submarine. I couldn’t ask for a better place to stay. They catered to all my needs and ensured comfort. The family that runs the houseboat is extremely kind.

2. Have an evening shikara ride – Who would have thought, I’d be paddled around a lake surrounded by the skyscraping mountains while crisp snow falls.

3. Visit the floating vegetable market – The ride took about 45 minutes, it is best to get there even before sunrise so you could see the early lights and watch the slow sunrise.

4. Visit Sonmarg – The kids in Srinagar does all kinds of snow activities in an unconventional way! They use different kinds of daily items to ski, snowboard, and sled! They do it extremely well! Much better than me in a full ski gear.

Here they used a cutout plastic and wooden stick to ski!

Enjoy a horse ride around the snow-capped Himalayas that will leave you in awe.

The sound of rushing water through the river with a backdrop of snow-covered trees is a treat to the eyes and ears.

5. Stay with a local – I stayed with a very kind family that dressed me up in  Kashmiri attire and made sure I was comfortable and warm at all times. Nothing beats staying with a local to observe and learn a different culture and way of life.

They provided hot packs and layers of thick blankets to keep me warm through the night.

6. Buy some real pashminas – I am talking about the real deal, not the fake ones sold in the market for cheap. Pashminas feels like butter on your skin and they are quite expensive but worth every penny!

Precautions:

Srinagar is within the state of Jammu & Kashmir where there is tension and controlled strictly by militants.

There isn’t any network coverage from the prepaid Indian telecom provider. If you need to make calls or get connected online, ask a local to provide hotspot connection.

The airport is also one of the tightest one in Asia, make sure to get to the airport 3 hours before your flight as you will have to pass through multiple security checkpoints. They didn’t allow any cabin baggage and you must identify your checked in baggage personally before it goes on the plane.

It’s unfortunate that citizens of some countries are warned of visiting Jammu & Kashmir due to its political tension. I have witnessed protests and militants protecting the city but I did not find myself in a threatening situation.

Nevertheless, if you ever plan on visiting India, I highly recommend visiting Jammu & Kashmir.

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I took a 12 hours bus ride from Agra to Varanasi. It was a pleasant ride. I was at the very last row that had 5 seats in a row with 3 other backpackers so we had plenty of space.

I went to Stops Hostel and they have quickie offer for backpackers who weren’t going to spend the night. I took it for 3.50 USD because I was leaving to New Delhi the same night. I dropped my bag, and went out to explore the city.

Stops hostel is perfectly located with only couple of minutes walk from the ghat. Ghats are the steps along the Ganga river bank. There are more than 80 ghats on the stretch of about 7 km. I walked along the ghats and there were 3 ghat that I wanted to explore; the small cremation, main ghat, big cremation.

As I walked along, I noticed the ancient and unique architecture the city has. It turns out that Varanasi is one of the oldest cities in the world. The people believe that the city existed before history and found by Lord Shiva which makes it one of the holiest and most spiritual city for Hindus. Just like how Muslims have the two holy cities; Makkah & Madinah, Hindus have Varanasi.

The first ghat I stumbled upon was Manikarnika Ghat, the small cremation. When I got there, they were about to begin the funeral ritual, I sat there for awhile and there was a lot of discussion and nothing happened so I decided to leave and watch the ritual in the big cremation.

Walking along the ghats was such a self awakening moment.  It opens up your eyes to appreciate different religion, beliefs and practices. It’s such a spiritual city that you can see many Hindu rituals from dawn to dusk along the ghat. It’s a busy area with people doing prayers, preaches, cremations, washing clothes, busy barbers, masseuse giving ayurveda massages, people taking a bath, swimming, or simply relaxing by the river.

The walk along the ghat exerted a lot of energy from me especially after a 12 hours bus ride, didn’t have any meal for more than 24 hours, busy area and the sun was striking. Nevertheless, I kept walking along and I kept on stumbling on interesting action, buildings and temples that distracted me from feeling like I was about to collapse. And there was an amazing little shop for the freshest and most delicious lassi! It’s called Blue Lassi. I desperately needed that for some energy boost. Do not miss out on that!

While I was sitting in the shop and enjoying my coconut chocolate lassi, I heard a loud chant and quick steps of a large group of people. I pulled out my phone anticipating for an interesting action. They were carrying a deceased body to the big cremation. A couple of them went by while I was still indulging on my lassi. I quickly finished up my lassi so I could witness the ritual from start to finish.

I walked down to Harishchandra ghat which is the big cremation ghat. Turned out, I did not have to worry about missing out on the ritual because there were more than 1 body, not 2 not 3 but 5! I was stunned! I can’t describe how I felt at that moment. I was pretty much out of words. I couldn’t digest or comprehend the situation at that moment. I just sat there next to a deceased body wrapped in white cloth and getting prepped up.

A local came by and started sharing information that this goes on 24 hours, 7 days a week, nonstop, regardless of weather or climate. They cremate up to 200 bodies per day. While the man speaks, I couldn’t fully concentrate with him as I was contemplating on the sacred and spiritual moment. Here’s what I’ve picked up on the process.

This ritual is to break the life cycle in order to achieve nirvana. In Hinduism, they believe that if the body of the deceased is not burnt, the soul is still attached and it would get reincarnated.

To achieve nirvana, the deceased is wrapped in golden cloth, placed on top of sandalwoods, they stack up more sandalwood above the body, and they pour ghee and sandalwood powder. There wasn’t any bad smell from the cremation, this is because they use only sandalwood which is quite expensive to their standard.

To begin the burning process, the male relative of the deceased holds a handful of long twigs, catches the fire from the eternal flame that is said to have been burning for over 3,000 years. Then, he walks clockwise around the deceased for 5 times and then puts in the twig that’s been on flame. And the brazen flame starts and fume spread in the air. I had to move from sitting next to the body as it was getting unbearable.

The flame goes on for about 3 to 5 hours. Any remains of bones are picked up by the male relative and thrown into the river. The death of a child under 8 years old, holy men or caused by snake bite does not get cremated. They are wrapped with a stone and thrown in the river.

After watching the incredibly thought provoking ritual, I walked back to the direction of the hostels and passed by the main ghat; Dashashwamedh.

In the evening, at around 6:30p.m., hundreds or even thousands of people gather on the main ghat for the worship to fire. The priests light up candles and perform the ritual. It’s very soothing and calming to watch.

You could watch it by the ghat itself or from the boat on the river. The priest faces the river while performing the evening prayer. If you decide to go on the boat, make sure to get loads of mosquito repellant.

Varanasi is a journey of a lifetime. It will offer you something you will never forget and something you will never find elsewhere. It is sacred, spiritual, raw, unconcealed and unsubtle.

Dos & Don’ts

1. Do try Blue Lassi for the best and freshest lassi! They carry many different flavors too.
2. Do dress up extremely light because the ghat is a long stretch and it gets really hot during noon.
3. Do go on the boat ride for sunset and watch the evening prayer and get the beautiful outline view of Varanasi from the other side of the river.
4. Don’t take photos of the cremation up close, the locals will get angry and approach you. But you can take photos from afar.
5. Don’t give any donation or pay anyone along the ghats, they are scams.

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